Friday, May 1st, 2009
Season to Taste
5 FARM-FRESH INGREDIENTS FOR SPRING
ASPARAGUS • MORELS • BEETS • SPINACH & BABY SWISS CHARD • AVOCADO
By Bret Stetka
Photography by Leo Gong
Styling by Karen Shinto
More and more, Americans want to know precisely where their food comes from. Many of us are beginning to trace the convoluted path from farm to dinner plate, and are wondering why Big Macs contain something called azodicarbonamide.
As the public becomes increasingly wary of industrialized food production, responsible eaters are seeking organic and locally sourced fruits and veggies. So, to celebrate this country’s bounty of farm-fresh offerings, we’ve highlighted five ingredients ripe for spring harvest, along with great places to enjoy each one.
1 INGREDIENT: BEETS
IN THE RED Beets draw mixed reactions. Some people love them. Others think they’re best left in the ground. But we encourage the beet-wary to hold off on judging until they’ve been to Kansas City’s 152year-old farmer’s market for a fresh bushel of these springtime root vegetables. Like many Midwestern farms, those around KC are known for their beets, the bold, sweet and earthy flavor of which can add intensity to a salad or stand up to the heartiest of meats. Plus, they’re incredibly healthy. And if it’s possible for vegetables to be hip, beets are the Kanye West of produce. Top chefs around the country are, at the moment, obsessed with boiling, baking, slicing and grating these red roots, looking to convert the skeptics and celebrate the season’s harvest.
Goode Eats
SIXTY-ONE MILES FROM Kansas City sits Goode Acres, a 36-acre farm in Wathena, Kan. John Goode bought the property 23 years ago–back when it was an apple orchard—and has been providing the Kansas City area with fresh produce ever since. Goode specializes in tomatoes and peppers, but devotes half an acre to one of his favorite crops: beets. “I just love ’em,” he says. “People around here take their beets very seriously.”
Most of Goode’s beets are Detroit Darks–the deep maroon variety typically seen in U.S. grocery stores—but he also dabbles with the Chioggia, a sweeter strain that looks good on the plate thanks to its concentric rings of white and purple flesh. During springtime, you can find beets from Goode Acres at the farmers market in downtown Kansas City.
SPICED SALMON WITH ROASTED BEETS AND CITRUS BUTTER
This recipe was provided by Debbie Gold, executive chef at The American Restaurant (816-545-8001; www.theamericankc.com) in Kansas City.
SERVES 4
4 – 6 ounce pieces salmon
6 lemons
6 limes
3 oranges
1 cup coriander seeds, toasted
5 pieces star anise
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ cup jasmine rice
4 medium beets
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup salt
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
Dry white wine ½ pound unsalted butter cut into 1 inch cubes
1 tablespoon walnut oil
SPICE MIX (BEGIN THE DAY BEFORE):
1. Using a peeler, take the zest off all the fruit with as little pith as possible. Juice all the fruit and reserve.
2. Blanch all the zests 2 times in new cold water each time.
3. Dehydrate the zests overnight in the oven.
4. Put the dried zest, spices, and rice in the spice mill until fine. Pass through the small strainer to remove any lumps.
BEETS:
1. Set the oven at 350 degrees.
2. Cut off leaves attached to the beets. Trim both ends. Wash the beets well. Place in an ovenproof baking dish. Sprinkle with olive oil, then liberally with salt and toss with the black peppercorns, thyme and bay leaf. Cover with foil.
3. Transfer to the oven and roast for 1 to 11/2 hours or until the beets are tender when pierced with a skewer.
4. Let the beets cool slightly. To peel, place the beets on paper towels; use the towels to rub the skins off.
5. Slice the beets and sprinkle with oil.
SALMON:
1. Drizzle salmon with olive oil. Make sure to coat each piece. Evenly coat each piece of salmon with the spice mix.
2. Heat a medium-sized sauté pan with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Place salmon, serving side down, in hot pan. Reduce heat to medium high. Sear salmon until it caramelizes, about 5 minutes. Turn over and place pan in a 400-degree oven for 8 minutes.
SAUCE:
1. Measure the amount of citrus juice. Add equal measurement of wine.
2. Reduce the juices and wine together until they reach a syrup-like consistency. Slowly whisk in walnut oil and butter.
TO PLATE:
Evenly distribute beets on plates. Place one piece of salmon on top of beets, and drizzle with sauce.
2 INGREDIENT: MORELS
FROM THE GROUND UP
Every mushroom hunter has a theory on where and when morels might pop up. And rightly so, since these coveted caps—which yes, kind of look like brains—are only in season for a few months in the spring. With its abundant woodlands, Washington state is a perfect morel destination, with plenty of home cooks and antsy Seattle chefs eager for the mushrooms to poke their funny-looking heads through the forest floor. Morels are known for their delicate, earthy flavor. They’re great on their own—sauté in butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and you’re done—or paired with fish, poultry or beef.
Down to Earth
Chef Dustin Ronspies is turning away customers, which is partly due to the fact that his restaurant, Art of the Table (206-282-0942; artofthetable. net) only has 23 seats, but mostly because Seattleites are enthralled by his outstanding fare and fresh, local-isbetter philosophy. Most of Ronspies’ ingredients come from nearby farmers, fishermen and—in the case of morels— foragers. And this spring, Ronspies plans to feature plenty of these sought-after mushrooms.
“Morels signify that spring has arrived in the Northwest. They’re something we all look forward to,” he says.
Creamed morels with potato & chanterelle mushroom latkes
After years as a private chef, Art of the Table’s chef Dustin Ronspies now cooks on his own terms. This creamy, earthy recipe highlights his fondness for all things mushroom.
SERVES 6
CREAMED MORELS
1 pound fresh morel mushrooms (cleaned and sliced if large)
½ cup finely diced shallot
2 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoon dry sherry wine
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoon Parmesan cheese (grated)
2 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Heat a large skillet and add butter and olive oil. Add shallots and cook over medium heat until translucent.
2. Add garlic and mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook until mushrooms release and reabsorb their liquid.
3. Add the sherry wine and cook until absorbed by the mushrooms. Add cream. When it comes to a boil, add Parmesan cheese.
4. Let simmer until sauce is thickened. Add the parsley and set aside.
POTATO & CHANTERELLE LATKES
2 cups Yukon gold potatoes (peeled and coarsely grated)
Juice of ½ lemon
2 cups chanterelle mushrooms (coarsely chopped)
1 tablespoon shallot (minced)
1 tablespoon garlic (minced)
3 large eggs (lightly beaten)
2 tablespoons fl our
½ tablespoon salt
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter
1. In a medium bowl combine the potatoes, lemon juice and salt. Let stand 15 minutes.
2. Sauté the chanterelles, shallots and garlic in butter until the mushrooms have browned.
3. Wring potatoes out in a clean dish towel and return to bowl; mix in chanterelles, shallot, eggs and flour, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Add 1/4 cup of the vegetable oil to a large heated skillet and drop in large spoonfuls of the potato mixture; flatten with the back of a spatula. Cook until brown and crispy (about 5-6 minutes). Flip the latkes and cook until crisp (about 5 more minutes).
5. Drain on paper towels and top with creamed morels.
3 INGREDIENT: AVOCADOS
PASS THE HASS Avocados are Noth American to the core. (Or, more appropriately, to the pit.) These knobby green fruits originated in Mexico around 8.000 years ago and were later cultivated for their rich and creamy flavor and supposed ability to enhance fertility. Eventually they made their way to Peru-Where avocado seeds have been found buried with Incan mummies-and, more recently, to Southern California, where 90 percent of U.S. avocados are grown.
There are now hundreds of varieties worldwide, but in America, the most common by far is the Hass, the dark purplish-green avocado with pebbly skin and a buttery texture that winds up in Super Bowl guacamole across the country. And who do we have to thank for the popular variety? A mailman named Rudolph Hass, who first grew and promoted it in La Habra Heights, Calif. in the early 1900s.
All Hass avocados are descended from a single tree on Hass’ orchard, which sadly passed away of root rot in 2002.
FISH TACOS WITH CALIFORNIA AVOCADO, GRAPEFRUIT AND TOASTED ANCHO SALSA
This recipe provided by chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger pairs creamy California avocados with sour citrus and a spicy ancho kick.
Avocado
Advocates
Few chefs have done more to promote California avocados than Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, aka the “Too Hot Tamales.” This classically trained pair cooked their way to success by joining authentic Mexican cuisine with chic, urban atmosphere at their restaurants Border Grill (310-451-1655; www.bordergrill.com), in Santa Monica, and Ciudad (213-486-5171; www.ciudad-la.com), in downtown Los Angeles. “We use local avocados whenever possible,” Feniger says.
Milliken adds, “California avocados are so rich and satisfying. They compliment acidic, sharp and spicy flavors. They pair well with so many foods.”
That includes breakfast. “They’re wonderful in scrambled eggs,” Feniger says, but her favorite preparation lets the avocado shine: Cut one in half, remove the pit, and drizzle with olive oil and add salt and pepper. Suddenly that cereal seems so boring.
SERVES 4
FISH TACOS
1 Pacific halibut fillet Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
8 (6-inch) corn tortillas, warmed
4 lettuce leaves
1. On the stovetop, heat a grill pan over medium-high heat or prepare a medium-hot grill. Drizzle halibut with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and grill until barely done (2 to 5 minutes per side).
2. Remove fish from grill, cool slightly, and pull apart into large flakes.
3. Place warm tortillas on a work surface. Line each with a piece of lettuce and pieces of fish.
4. Top each with a generous spoonful of salsa. Serve immediately.
SALSA
2 medium ancho chiles, wiped clean, stemmed and seeded
1 pink grapefruit, chilled
1 ripe avocado, halved, seeded and peeled
½ bunch chives, chopped
½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 ½ tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
1. Toast chiles over medium gas flame or in cast-iron skillet until soft and brown. Turn frequently to avoid scorching. Slice toasted chiles into 1-inch strips, then into a fine julienne.
2. Slice ends off grapefruit. Cut away peel and membrane, exposing fruit. Working over a bowl to catch the juices, separate the grapefruit sections by slicing with a knife between membranes. Remove and discard seeds.
3. Cut grapefruit segments and avocados into 1/2inch dice. Toss with toasted chiles and chives in mixing bowl. Gently stir in reserved grapefruit juice, orange juice, lime juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Let sit 30 minutes.
4 INGREDIENTS: SPINACH & BABY SWISS CHARD
TURNING A NEW LEAF
Here’s a proposal for Green Bay Packers fans: Try a spinach hat every now and then; Wisconsin agriculture has far more to offer than just cheddar. During spring, this farm-rich state is overgrown with vegetables, including plenty of leafy greens ready for first cutting.
Greens get taken for granted—for most, when the future holds a piece of pork, the last thing anyone’s thinking about is a spring salad.
But dark, leafy varieties like spinach and baby Swiss chard are some of most versatile, flavorful veggies around, worthy of just as much respect as the main course.
Unlike iceberg lettuce, their bland cousin, these robust leaves don’t require salad-bar treatment to make them taste good. No goopy dressing or mounds of shredded cheese. Just a simple vinaigrette should suffice, or a quick sauté with garlic in olive oil.
Okay, the spinach hats might be a tough sell, but fresh Wisconsin greens are definitely worth a try.
Market Watch
According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Wisconsin is home to a staggering 76,000 farms. So it’s no wonder the state is packed with farmers markets through the spring and summer. Madison boasts the biggest producer-only market in the country. Green Bay has held a downtown market for 92 years. And down the road in Milwaukee, there are more than 20 markets for locals to choose from. One of the best is the Milwaukee Public Market (www.milwaukeepublicmarket.org), in the Historic Third Ward. You’ll find plenty of Wisconsin staples—be sure to stock up on cheese and sausage—but also loads of fresh fruit and vegetables. Produce is handled by the Public Market’s organic grocery store, Good Harvest Market, which sources from local growers like Tim Huth, whose community farm supplies spring greens like spinach, mustard greens and baby Swiss chard.
MILWAUKEE BLUE CHEESE SALAD
This intensely flavorful salad recipe was passed along from Pat Sturgis, coowner of Milwaukee’s Beans & Barley (414-278-7878; www.beansandbarley.com), which is known for its fresh ingredients.
SERVES 1-2
BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Yield: 1 cup
Ingredients
4 ounces olive oil
3 ounces balsamic vinegar
2 cloves roasted garlic, mashed
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1. Combine all ingredients except olive oil in bowl.
2. Slowly drizzle in oil while using a small immersion blender or whisk to create emulsion.
SALAD
2 1/2 cups fresh spinach
1/4 cup balsamic vinaigrette (recipe above)
1/4 cup toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds toasted in a skillet with oil & a little salt)
1/4 cup craisins (preferably dried Wisconsin cranberries).
1/4 cup crumbled Wisconsin blue cheese
1. Toss spinach with balsamic vinaigrette.
2. Top with pepitas, craisins and blue cheese and serve.
5 INGREDIENT: ASPARAGUS
CHEERS FOR SPEARS
Asparagus comes in many forms. There’s thin asparagus. Fat asparagus. Green, purple and white asparagus.Regardless of appearance, a fresh crop signals that spring has arrived. Its earthy, slightly funky flavor reminds us it was plucked straight from the ground.
Long before Nebraska’s expansive cornfields reach harvest, the state’s asparagus will be ripe for the picking. Libby Broekemeier of the Nebraska Food Cooperative believes strongly in never touching the supermarket stuff: "Growing up, I never realized it was such a common crop in Nebraska. As i got older and attended farmers markets and met local farmers, i started buying local asparagus. And what a difference!"
CHICKEN ASPARAGUS SOUP
Stalk Options
You can find asparagus on the plate or in the basket at these spots in Omaha.
OMAHA FARMERS MARKET
From May through mid-October, this massive market boasts multiple vendors offering fresh asparagus. Many of the city’s chefs do their shopping here.
DARIO’S BRASSERIE
This rustic French-Belgian eatery describes its cuisine as “gourmet comfort food.” Along with providing an extensive beer and wine selection, they do wonders with fresh asparagus.
Try the asparagus and scrambled egg crêpes. 402-933-0799; www.dariosbrasserie.com
Soups aren’t only meant for winter; some, like this one from Ely Farms, are meant to be enjoyed during spring.
SERVES 6-8
2 pounds fresh asparagus
2 large potatoes, peeled and diced
1 large onion, chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
1 medium carrot, chopped
2 teaspoons dried parsley fl akes
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cans (14 ½ ounces each) chicken broth
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 bay leaf
2 cups cubed cooked chicken
2 cups half and half cream
Shaved parmesan cheese
1. Cut tips from washed asparagus spears and set aside.
2. Place stalks in a pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 40 minutes or until tender. Set aside. Reserve 4 cups of cooking liquid.
3. In a Dutch oven, sauté the potatoes, onion, celery, carrot, parsley, and garlic in oil until vegetables are tender. Stir in the broth, salt, ¼ tsp. pepper, bay leaf and reserved cooking liquid. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered for 30 minutes. Discard bay leaf. Cool slightly.
4. Using a blender, purée soup and cooked asparagus in batches until smooth. Return to pan. Add the chicken, cream, remaining pepper and reserved asparagus tips.
5. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes or until asparagus tips are tender. Garnish with parmesan cheese if desired.
FEATURED FARM
Ely Farms
Nearly two hours outside of Omaha sits Ely Farms (www.elyfarms.com), a five-acre asparagus farm run by 24-yearold Neal Ely and his brother Reid. Neal grew up on his parent’s soy and corn farm, but in eighth grade went into business for himself, founding Ely Farms. Inspired by his mother’s pickled asparagus, Ely took over an acre on his parent’s farmland in 1999 and began cultivating asparagus as part of a government-sponsored school program. “The first year we did 500 jars,” he says. “Now we’re up to 11,000.”
Ely Farms sells fresh asparagus locally, but also enjoys a thriving online mail-order business, selling pickled asparagus to fans across the country.
