Saturday, November 1st, 2008
Eat & Drink
Not So Silly
Goose is a very serious gourmet holiday bird.
The Christmas goose evokes images of Dickensian holidays in which the bird is a symbol of bounty. This predecessor to turkey was a staple throughout Scandinavia, Germany, England and France, but fell off in popularity once farmers discov- ered how easy it was to raise plump, juicy flocks of domestic turkey.
But Jim Schiltz, Owner of Schiltz Goose Farms (roastgoose.com), the larg- est goose farm in North America, claims that goose is hands-down the best holiday poultry, saying that the meat is “beefier” than turkey. The all-dark- meat bird is certainly richer than other types of poultry, but it also has complex smoky, musky flavors that are well- complemented by chestnut stuffing.
The goose keeps giving, too: Its fat, which is plentiful and has an almost mushroom-like flavor, is a dream to cook with. (Your home fries will become leg- endary if you make them with goose fat.) According to Schiltz, goose fat is also a secret ingredient in the best Hanukkah cookies, lest you think it’s only associ- ated with Christmas.
Looking for a spin on a holiday meal? Whichever holiday you celebrate, goose is the perfect golden-skinned centerpiece.
GOOSE: COOKED!
Here are some tips for preparing the perfect bird.
Preheat oven to 450º, cook goose at that temperature for 30 minutes, then reduce to 350º.
* Allow about 25 minutes per pound, or cook until meat thermometer reads 185º.
*
Do not cook with stuffing inside; it will get very greasy.
*
You won’t need much seasoning. Try sea salt, fresh-ground black pepper and rosemary.
*
No need to baste! Just poke holes in the skin before cooking.
BIRD IS THE WORD
Forego traditional hams and turkeys and make a game of your holiday meal.
You’ve probably seen duck on a menu or two, but what about pheasant? Peacock? Maybe partridge or quail? These game birds were popular back when hunting was more than just a sport, and they can still be purchased from specialty farms like Oakwood Game Farm (www.oakwoodgamefarm.com) in Princeton, Minn., an hour from Minneapolis, which sells pheasant and chukar partridge. Co-owner Betty Meyer says the birds have a strong, wild flavor and are a lot better for you.
“Game birds do not have fat on them,” Meyer says, “so you have to prepare them in a way to keep them from drying out.”
Despite the extra work, Meyer never goes for the traditional bird. “There would be no comparison—to me, domestic turkey is bland,” she says.
