Tuesday, July 1st, 2008

High on the hog

Milwaukee gets revved up for Harley-Davidson’s 105th anniversary.
By Manya Kaczkowski

RALF SCHULTHEISS
/GETTY IMAGES

EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK, THERE WILL BE CHROME, DENIM AND BANDANNAS. THE SWEET SCENT OF LEATHER AND THE WHITE HAZE OF EXHAUST WILL FILL THE AIR. THE HUM OF THOUSANDS OF MOTORS RUNNING AT MINIMUM SPEED AND READY TO OPEN UP AND ROAR AT ANY MOMENT WILL FORM A LOW RUMBLE. PEOPLE WILL LINE WISCONSIN AVENUE, WATCHING THE PARADE OF 5,500 HARLEY ENTHUSIASTS ON WHAT SOME CALL THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MACHINES IN THE WORLD. YOU’LL SEE FLAGS FROM EVERY STATE, BECAUSE MANY OF THOSE WHO ATTEND WILL RIDE HUNDREDS OR THOUSANDS OF MILES TO GET TO THE PARTY.

The last week of August will be marked on every serious biker’s calendar; it’s the week Milwaukee celebrates the 105th anniversary of Harley-Davidson, and thousands of riders in the Harley Owners Group (HOG) will bring their motorcycles home.

Bikers from around the world will start rolling into town the weekend before the party, with more showing up every day until Brew City is transformed into HOG heaven. The two-day main event culminates in a music festival on Aug. 29, featuring bands like The Black Crowes and Foo Fighters, topped off with a lakefront show by Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band. But there’s plenty to do before all that gets rockin’. All week long, there are parties at every area dealership, with celebrities, rock bands and bike washes. A sort of roving street festival will take place in a different neighborhood each night of the week, and the HOG sponsors a free, members-only event at Miller Park that includes music and events like stunt riding and the Wall of Ink tattoo contest.

artist’s rendering of the
Harley-Davidson Museum,
which opens on July 12

During the week, Harley-Davidson plants will offer expanded tours; the self-guided walk through Harley-Davidson University at the Juneau Avenue ofﬁ ces, in particular, is a big draw. “People want to come and see the place, hang out for awhile and have their picture taken with their bike in front of the building,” says Bob Klein, a Harley spokesman. After all, the shed where William S. Harley and the Davidson boys built their ﬁ rst motorcycle is nearby. To a biker, it’s a piece of history.

One of the best ways to spend time in Milwaukee—whether it’s the 105th anniversary weekend or not—is at the brand-new Harley-Davidson Museum in the Menomonee Valley, just two miles from downtown.

“Harley-Davidson has been dreaming of building a museum for a long, long time,” says Stacey Schiesl, the museum’s director. “Really since the beginning, when we began pulling one cycle [in each model] off the line every year and archiving it.” There are more than 450 vehicles in the collection today.

FIT FOR A KING
Elvis Presley bought his Harley-Davidson KH in 1956—just before “Heartbreak Hotel” made him a star.

The museum site is as interesting as the exhibits: it’s 20 acres in size and formerly the home of the Milwaukee
Department of Public Works,
Lakeshore Sand Company and
Morton Salt. During the demolition phase, Harley-Davidson recycled what it could, donating items like water fountains and air conditioners to Milwaukee’s public schools. They used recycled materials to build the new structure, as well. “We were able to use 88,000 cubic yards of the former Marquette Interchange as ﬁ ll for the foundation,” Schiesl says. The company was given a Governor’s Award for Excellence in Environmental Performance this year.

Board track racing in the
1920s

Outside, every detail was planned to provide a traditional biker experience. Streets within the property are 60 feet wide, so riders can park Sturgis-style—one row on each side, two in the center. “We want a rally-type atmosphere,” Schiesl says. In addition to parking directly on the site, there are two parking “gardens” across the street (so named because grass, trees and porous materials help control storm-water runoff).

Harley-Davidson
advertisement
from 1931

The museum is surrounded on three sides by water from the Menomonee River; the backyard, with lots of trees and open space, is a great place to spend some time—you might even see a tugboat sporting a Harley-Davidson flag, pushing materials in and out of the harbor. “We made the steps to the river walk long and wide so that people can sit here and just hang out,” Schiesl says. She points out the giant sand hoppers at either end of Fifth Street. Left over from Lakeshore Sand, Harley-Davidson decided to keep them as a testament to the industrial nature of the property. Plus, well, they look cool.

The museum building is anchored with an exoskeleton of galvanized steel beams. Two other buildings house the company archives, the restaurant, a retail store and lots of space for special events. Levy Restaurants handles the food, described as “American with a Harley-Davidson spin.” Seating is indoors, but during special events, on really nice days, drinks can be served at a portable bar outside.

SALUTE THE CAPTAIN
Peter Fonda rode “Captain America”
in the 1969 movie Easy Rider.

Inside, the museum houses King Kong, a 13-foot long, two-engine motorcycle that was customized over a period of 40 years by Harley enthusiast Felix Predko. Elvis’ 1956 Harley-Davidson KH motorcycle is also there, along with the sales paperwork, where, in an overwhelming understatement, he listed his occupation as “self-employed vocalist.” You’ll learn the story of Vivian Bales, who rode from Georgia to Milwaukee in 1929 to write about her experience in The Harley-Davidson Enthusiast—quite a stir for a woman at that time. One of the most interesting exhibits is the board track, with a 45-degree curved wall. “It was an extreme sport, popular in the U.S. in the 1920s,” Schiesl says. “The bikes would go 120 miles per hour with no brakes—they removed them because they were too heavy.”

The museum’s rivet walls

After visiting the museum (which opens in July), the logical place to spend the night is at the brand new Iron Horse Hotel. It’s an upscale property with an industrial bent (it’s a rehabbed mattress factory) that caters to motorcycle enthusiasts and business travelers alike. Owner Tim Dixon followed legendary hotelier Chip Conley’s advice: Find ﬁ ve words that describe the feel of the property. Dixon’s words are edgy, sexy, sophisticated, smart and unique. Every detail in the hotel is measured against each word. “People have to be comfortable walking into the lobby in gritty leathers or in high heels,” Dixon says.

rivet plaza

To that end, there is covered motorcycle parking, a bike wash and a stylish lounge in the lobby. Guest rooms have thoughtful details such as stitched leather headboards, boot benches and wall murals by local artist Chuck Dwyer. Like Harley-Davidson, Dixon used reclaimed materials whenever possible, and original architectural elements were factored into the hotel’s design. “We really respect the bones,” he says. “We try to use them, rather than hide them.”

A boot bench at
the Iron Horse Hotel

You don’t have to own a black leather jacket, sport tattoos, or even own a motorcycle to fall in love with these iconic bikes. But after an action-packed weekend in the hog’s hometown, you might just ﬁ nd yourself overwhelmed with a longing for the open road and, beneath you, the roar of a Harley-Davidson.

MIDWEST AIRLINES offers daily flights to and from Milwaukee. Details can be found at midwestairlines.com.

PARTY STARTERS

“Our anniversaries are about great riding, great people, great entertainment … bringing the Harley-Davidson experience to riders and nonriders alike,” says Harley spokesman Bob Klein. Join the party from Aug. 27 through Sept. 1:

• Milwaukee Harley-Davidson will host Kid Rock, Andrew Dice Clay, the very ﬁ rst Miss Milwaukee Contest and much more.

• House of Harley-Davidson will hold a police parade on Aug. 28. The next day, help build a bike for charity, and on Sept. 1, enter to win a bike signed by Brett Favre.

• Hal’s Harley-Davidson will present bands like The LoveMonkeys and One Tone Banana. Show up on Aug. 29 to ﬁ nd out what Talk Like A Pirate Day is.

STREET PARTIES:

Aug. 27
Harley-Davidson and Miller Brewing at 3700 W. Juneau Ave.

Aug. 28
Milwaukee Street, Downtown

Aug. 29
East Side Entertainment District, North Avenue at Prospect Avenue

Aug. 30
Old World Third Street

Aug. 31
North Water Street

EAT-CETERA
Nothing’s better after a great ride than great food. Some local winners:

ROOTS
The seasonal menu uses ingredients from its partner farm in Cedarburg. Try sassafras-roasted chicken with grilled onion shortcake.
1818 N. Hubbard St. ß 414-374-8480
www.rootsmilwaukee.com

RIP TIDE
This crab shack on the water has a casual party atmosphere. Head out to the patio for 50-cent crab claws, washed down with cold beer.
649 E. Erie St. ß 414-271-8433
www.getriptide.com

THE WICKED HOP
Start with a cocktail in the Jackalope Lounj, then enjoy grilled salmon with basil-horseradish cream.
345 N. Broadway ß 414-223-0345
www.thewickedhop.com

MILWAUKEE ALE HOUSE
Sit outside by the Milwaukee River, and try a beer brewed on-site. You can also hop on a cruise boat and take a trip to two other local breweries.
233 N. Water St. ß 414-226-2337
www.ale-house.com

POWER NAP
When it’s time to turn off the engine, if the Iron Horse is booked, try:

PFISTER HOTEL
It’s downtown— close to all of the activities—and it’s a grand hotel with impeccable service. Plus, its spa is among the best in town.
424 E. Wisconsin Ave. ß 414-273-8222
www.p.#64257; sterhotel.com

AMBASSADOR
This funky boutique hotel is decked out in Art Deco style. The on-site restaurant, Envoy, is excellent.
2308 W. Wisconsin Ave. ß 414-342-8400
www.ambassadormilwaukee.com

HAMPTON INN
Always a good value, this location is no exception. Plus, it’s right around the corner from the Milwaukee Harley-Davidson dealership.
5601 N. Lovers Lane ß 414-466-8881
www.hamptoninn.com

THE BRUMDER MANSION
This stylish bed-and-breakfast is on Wisconsin Avenue—you can watch the bikes roll by from the porch.
3046 W. Wisconsin Ave. ß 414-342-9767
www.brumdermansion.com.