VINTAGE SHOPPING

Say “vintage clothing,” and you may conjure up memories of foraging through racks of musty old sweaters and tattered leopard-print coats. But going vintage isn’t just for art school kids and counterculture devotees anymore. From top celebrities strolling down the red carpet to high school seniors in search of the perfect prom dress, attire from decades past appeals to those looking to add a little creative flair to their wardrobe. Ready to perk up your closet and cultivate a unique, personal style? Here are a few of our favorite hot-spots for scoring true top-notch vintage duds, plus tips on getting the most out of your vintage shopping experience.

BY CHRISTINA KALLERY

SAN FRANCISCO

Located in San Fran’s famous Haight-Ashbury district, La Rosa Vintage features a broad inventory of items ranging from the 1880s through the 1970s. Top sellers include Marilyn-esque ’50s cocktail dresses and vintage Western shirts. The shop also boasts a sizeable selection of men’s suits from the ’20s to the ’60s, plus plenty of eye-catching vintage jewelry, purses and hats. La Rosa’s customer base tends to be fairly diverse, thanks to its highly trafficked locale. “We get a lot of designers looking for inspiration,” says Oran Scott, the shop’s manager. “Also a lot of actors, people going to parties and weddings, teenagers going to proms, plenty of tourists, and the occasional celebrity.” He adds, “What I like about vintage clothing is the sense of uniqueness. And the quality is better. Things aren’t made to last now. Fashion changes so fast, something new is gonna be out of style in a month.” His all-time favorite vintage find? “Two Western suits—two-tone with fringe—that were made by the same guy who designed Roy Roger’s suits.”

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ORAN’S FASHION ADVICE

“IF YOU LIKE IT, GET IT, BECAUSE YOU’LL NEVER SEE IT AGAIN. People tend not to realize that vintage is one of a kind.”

MIX VINTAGE WITH MODERN. “Try a ’50s skirt with a contemporary top, or a pair of awesome ’60s stilettos with new jeans.”

IF IT DOESN’T FIT, don’t force it.

NEW YORK

The newer, high-end supplement to SoHo vintage hotspot Chelsea Girl, Chelsea Girl Couture is not only a treasure trove of distinctive designer pieces but also a source of inspiration for next season’s runway fare. “A huge portion of our clientele are stylists and designers from around the world,” says store manager Jennifer Case. “We hand-pick our inventory each season.” As a result, revamped versions of Chelsea finds often make their way into fashion pages. Owner Elisa Casas keeps the store freshly stocked with plenty of Pucci, Missoni, Oscar de la Renta and ’70s Yves Saint Laurent. And since she’s a die-hard vintage bag collector, there’s never a shortage of interesting purses, clutches and totes in all shapes, sizes and colors.

JENNIFER’S SECOND-HAND TIPS

TAKE THE TIME TO FIGURE OUT WHAT STYLES YOU LIKE.
“That way you know what to look for.”

REMEMBER THAT CUTS WERE MORE DETAILED IN THE PAST.
“Something might seem like nothing special on the hanger, but look fantastic on because of the cut.”

NOT READY TO GO THE VINTAGE CLOTHING ROUTE?
“Start out with a great bag. It’s an easy addition to anyone’s wardrobe.”

Decades

LOS ANGELES

When Nicole Kidman makes an entrance in her amazing ’60s gown, chances are she scored it at this vintage couture wonderland. “We appeal to the client who wants something individual and one of a kind,” says owner Cameron Silver.

Decades’ vibe evokes sophistication and timeless glamour—never kitschy retro. “The magic of this business is pairing the right dress with the right woman,” Silver says. “We like vintage fashion that looks modern.” Stocked with a vast array of designer formalwear, separates and accessories from the likes of Chanel, Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, the emporium caters to both women and men. Can’t make it to the store just yet? Decades’ Web site features a Daily Arrival Blog highlighting the latest unearthed treasures.

CAMERON’S COSTUME CAUTIONS

ANYTHING THAT LOOKS TOO VINTAGE IS A NO-NO. “I can’t stress it enough—don’t look at it as vintage shopping. Look at it as contemporary shopping, only the pieces are older. You’ll avoid looking like a poster child for the Salvation Army.”

LOOK FOR QUALITY PIECES. “If it was good 30 or 40 years ago, it’s probably good today. If it was junky, it’s still going to be junky.”

THE VINTAGE PIECE A WOMAN WEARS IS A CONVERSATION PIECE. ”You don’t want too many conversations going on. Wear one or two vintage pieces at a time.”

CONDITION IS PARAMOUNT. “Better to pass on something that is falling apart unless you are a conservationist. Certain stains are hard to get out. Moth hole damage is hard to fix. If it stinks, walk away!”

DON’T FEEL LIKE YOU HAVE TO FLAUNT A BIG NAME. “I love it when a woman is wearing something that you cannot identify immediately. That mystery in a woman’s wardrobe can be quite attractive.”

Le Frock

SEATTLE

For the past 15 years, this Seattle shop has been selling gorgeous, quality vintage clothes at easy-on-the-wallet prices; most pieces ring in at under $100. Le Frock offers both contemporary fashion and vintage items from a range of eras. If you’re having trouble choosing between, say, the cashmere beaded cardigan or the suede fringe jacket, you can consult the store’s private fashion library to learn more about different styles throughout the decades and decide on the right look for you. Manager Paula Lucas loves the back stories associated with vintage clothes. “When I come across a ’30s Missionary Oblate walking jacket, I like the history behind it. All of these things were part of someone’s life,” she says.

PAULA’S VINTAGE 101

HIT THE DRESSING ROOM. “Ignore sizes because the charts have changed over the years. Try everything on.”

MAKE SURE THE SEAMS ARE INTACT. “A lot of times the clothing will stand up well but the seams won’t.”

DON’T BE AFRAID TO EXPERIMENT. “It’s half the fun. When you experiment, you discover your own style.”

Katy K Designs

NASHVILLE

When country stars need to pick up some eye-popping duds, they head to Katy K Designs. This Western-themed emporium boasts an eclectic mix of new and vintage items, as well as a special collection of pieces by the late country Western designer Nudie, who designed amazingly ornate stagewear for performers like Elvis, Johnny Cash, Dolly Parton and Ray Charles. “We’ve got the biggest selection of cowboy boots and men’s Western shirts,” says store manager Melba Toast. Other hot sellers include women’s vintage pieces and couture clothing whipped up by Katy K herself. But she doesn’t just cater to the Grand Ole Opry set. A one-time New York designer influenced by the underground ’80s music scene, Katy has created clothing for musicians among the likes of Klaus Nomi and John Sex, along with pop stars Cyndi Lauper and Whitney Houston. “Vintage makes you look like you spent more money than you did,” Toast says. “Because what you’re wearing is unusual. It’s not what everyone else is picking up at Wal-Mart.”

MELBA’S LOOKING LESSONS

CHECK LABELS. “Know what’s valuable— especially if you’re interested in collecting.”

CHECK WASHING INSTRUCTIONS. “If in doubt, dry clean.”

DON’T BE A SLAVE TO FASHION. “Put it on, and if it looks good, wear it!”

Dragonfly

MILWAUKEE

Located on the strollable Brady Street, this charming boutique blends a mix of old and new garments in its eclectic inventory. Vintage clothing generally spans the ’50s to the ’80s and includes summer skirts and dresses, formal gowns, ultra-girly lingerie, and assorted pieces from Betsey Johnson, Gunne Sax, Oleg Cassini and Chanel. Owner Annette French’s passion for vintage was sparked by necessity and grew from there. “I started out as a thrift shopper for financial reasons,” she says. “But I think vintage fashion is more interesting, more expressive and of better quality. It’s unique and also a form of recycling, which is cool.”

ANNETTE’S SHOPPING SUGGESTIONS

BE OPEN-MINDED ABOUT TAILORING. “If you love the piece, you might want to invest the extra cash to have it fit.”

CHECK THE UNDERARM AREA. “It’s a common trouble spot for seams.”

BE THERE. “Buying online is tricky, because you can’t try it on, and sizing varied so much in the past. A size eight could mean anything.”

The Paper Bag Princess

TORONTO

With entire streets devoted to hipster thrift stores and quirky, upscale boutiques, Toronto is a vintage shopper’s dream come true.

The Paper Bag Princess offers exceptional designer pieces from the ’20s on.

One glance at a rack reserved solely for Chanel or Pucci will tell you this isn’t your neighborhood hit-or-miss thrift shop. Most of the emporium’s wide, astoundingly chic inventory features only haute-grade garments in fantastic shape. “We’re extremely selective,” says Adjoa Duncan, the store’s manager. “Items are hand picked for their great quality and high-end design.” So if you’re looking for that ultra-rare Escada, Armani, Dior or Manolo, the Princess won’t disappoint.

ADJOA’S BUYING TIPS

AIM FOR THE STAPLES. “A good starting point is a little black dress. Get one that fits well and it will take you anywhere.”

ADD CHARACTER. “Everyone’s wardrobe could use a great-fitting jacket or suit.

WALK IT OUT. “Perk up any outfit with a fabulous pair of vintage shoes.”

Treasure talk

Diana Craig Sparks, owner of Bonnie & Clyde’s Treasure Trove located in Pierceton, Ind., aka “The Antique Town,” shared some of her top vintage shopping secrets.

WATCH FOR HIDDEN FLAWS.
A little evidence of wear is normal, but make sure to check for stains and tears in the fabric. Be sure to use a dry cleaner experienced in cleaning vintage fabrics.

TO AVOID REPRODUCTIONS, buy from a reputable dealer.

FIND A STYLE OR ERA that’s flattering to your body shape.

GO FOR QUALITY.
Well-crafted, tailored pieces make exceptional additions to any wardrobe and never go out of style!

REMEMBER that vintage clothes are older and need to be handled gently. A good dry cleaner, a great alteration shop and a love for the adventure that is vintage shopping are all you need to get started!

WATCH OUT FOR SIZING! Today’s sizes aren’t the same as they were in the ’70s or even the ’80s. It never hurts to carry a seam-stress’ tape measure when vintage shopping.

NOVICES SHOULD START SMALL, choosing items that mix well with contemporary clothes. Try a great eye-catching accessory or an embellished sweater.